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A Beauty Editor Reviews Balenciaga’s New Perfume Collection


All fragrances create a sense of escape, but the best ones (well, at least in my opinion) catapult you to an entirely different era. The Sunset Strip in the ’70s. The powder room of a Parisian speakeasy in the ’50s. An early 1900s villa nestled in the snowy Austrian Alps. Balenciaga‘s newest blend (one of 10, I should specify) teleports you right to Cristóbal Balenciaga’s 1947 showroom, where the founder introduced Le Dix, the Maison’s first-ever fragrance. It took 15 years for House archivists to finally rediscover the 78-year-old perfume relic, but once they did, the brand decided to re-create the bottle in its exact form—down to the hand-tied cotton ribbon. And starting today, you can officially snag that slice of fashion history for your own vanity.

The original Le Dix in its 1947 packaging

(Image credit: Courtesy of Balenciaga)

Le Dix is the definition of an olfactory time capsule; even its name, which translates to “the 10” in French, is a nod to the original Balenciaga Couture salon on 10 Avenue George V. Yet the juice inside is both nostalgic and unexpected, paying homage to the original icon while elevating it for today’s sophisticated fragrance consumer. For example, it combines the blend’s signature iris absolute with violet leaf and high-tech isolated iris aldehydes to amp up that vintage, powdery feel, as well as incense essential oils (a through line in the entire collection) to add a spicy, smoky complexity. Powdery perfumes—ones that arguably smell like a bullet of matte red lipstick—are on the rise among younger fragranceheads, especially as sticky-sweet gourmand scents risk overexposure. To them, these scents feel not old-fashioned but new and fresh—and Le Dix is arguably at the helm, transforming what it means to smell rich.