Refined, deliberate, sophisticated, confident—these are just a few of the descriptors used in the show notes to describe Carven’s S/S 26 collection, which Mark Thomas presented this week to an intimate crowd at 6 Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées in Paris. It was his first runway show since becoming creative director of the house, an impressive one at that. “Easy to wear,” “balanced,” and “calm” were also used.
These adjectives aren’t new to Carven, particularly in recent years. In 2023, Louise Trotter signed on as creative director, bringing about a new, modern era for the label. Three seasons later, it is one of the most beloved brands in Paris among stylish women who prefer beautifully crafted and uniquely tailored apparel to loud, statement-making alternatives. Thomas proved this Paris Fashion Week that he’s not planning to stray away from the look Trotter ushered in at Carven. “We are really happy with where we’ve arrived,” the British designer, who was working under Trotter when she left to take over from Matthieu Blazy (now at Chanel) at Bottega Veneta, told Vogue Business ahead of this season’s show. “Collections have only been in-store for about a year and a half, so there’s no need to break what’s starting to work. We just need to build on top of that.” He’s not afraid to add his own spin to the label, either.
Keep scrolling to see what cool women in Paris (with sightings in New York and Milan too) will be wearing next spring and summer.
Mark Thomas’s Runway Debut
There’s a reason why Thomas’s transition to the helm at Carven has been so smooth, something that’s far from guaranteed when a new designer takes the reins in this business. After graduating from Central Saint Martins, spending nine years at Neil Barrett, and briefly working at Givenchy, Thomas took a job at Joseph as head of menswear. At the time, Trotter was creative director, kicking off their long creative partnership. They broke away when Thomas became Helmut Lang’s creative director from 2017 to 2019 but reunited at Lacoste. (Trotter was appointed creative director of the French sportswear brand in 2018.) When she took the job at Carven in 2023, Thomas joined her, becoming second-in-command at the French house. He was the obvious choice, then, when she departed Carven to become Bottega Veneta‘s creative director, especially given the success the brand had found under their leadership. His fall/winter 2025 and pre-fall collections for Carven are proof that the brand’s owner, Icicle, made the right choice, as both earned critical acclaim in the industry.
(Image credit: Carven)
Easy, Deliberate, and Refined
Spring/summer 2026, which marks Thomas’s first runway collection since taking the job, is a clean continuation of his previous seasons and Trotter’s designs for the house, but there are subtle tweaks and experiments blended throughout. For example, he played around with sultry silhouettes and fabrics more than Trotter ever did. “Loose, protective, and joyful tops exude a tranquil sensuality that subtly reveals the body,” the press release stated. “Lace, lingerie, cotton voile, jacquards, silk, and moiré fabrics pay tribute to French savoir faire.” Carven is just as wearable, though, with Thomas debuting pieces that feel versatile and effortless—perfect for the Parisian woman in the heart of spring and summer. Think daytime poplin sets combined with polished, lightweight suits and dresses. It’s become a brand that stylish women want to invest in, buying a few pieces every season until they form a year-round wardrobe that is easy, deliberate, and refined.
(Image credit: Carven)
(Image credit: Carven)
(Image credit: Carven)
(Image credit: Carven)
The Kiss-Lock Bag
Carven’s S/S 26 show saw a new bag arrive for the brand: an oversize kiss-lock purse that debuted in multiple colors, from light blue to muted gray. The brand is one of many that have, in recent seasons, leaned into the “dated” bag shape, coming up with new, fresh styles that fashion crowds are welcoming with open arms. The larger size of Carven’s bag for spring is what makes this style so unique and intriguing. Kiss-lock bags are typically small in size and formal; however, Thomas’s take is far more practical and has a day-to-night appeal that will surely help to move units come spring 2026.
(Image credit: Carven)
(Image credit: Carven)
Formal Flip-Flops
Flip-flop haters, I’m sorry, but this is one controversial shoe trend that isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. It is, however, getting a makeover. Carven’s S/S 26 show heavily featured thong sandals, but they were not the casual rubber versions we’ve become accustomed to seeing on NYC and Copenhagen fashion people with trousers and knitwear. Instead, Thomas’s offering for spring is far more formal with satin fabrics, pillowy shapes, and beaded embellishments that’ll seriously level up the flip-flop category.
(Image credit: Carven)
(Image credit: Carven)
(Image credit: Carven)
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