It’s been over two years since celebrity makeup artist Mary Phillips joined TikTok and graced us with the “underpainting” technique she uses on all her high-profile clients (Kendall Jenner, Hailey Bieber, and Jennifer Lopez, to name a select few), and in those two years, the less-is-more makeup visionary has been gearing up for this moment: launching her very own “underpainting” products.
For the uninitiated, “underpainting” essentially flips a traditional makeup routine on its head, as you apply contour, concealer, and highlighter before foundation for natural-looking definition and an airbrushed finish. “It’s like laying down the bones under the skin, the contour and the highlight being the bones and the skin being the foundation,” Phillips said in an early tutorial. You can use whatever products you prefer, but she does recommend buildable, sheer to medium-coverage formulas (plus very thin layers of foundation) for a seamlessly sculpted look. Enter M.Ph, her own collection of dream tools to absolutely nail that second-skin effect.
Testing the stunning new products
The line includes everything you need to master Phillips’s signature beat—including cream blush balms, sleek lipsticks, and velvety-smooth lip pencils—but the star of the show is arguably her Underpainting Palette ($64), a five-pan palette that features one color corrector, two highlighters, and two contours for precise, easy sculpting.
I was lucky enough to watch Phillips play with these skin-blurring shades IRL, and trust me when I say the experience was like witnessing an oil painting spring to life. For an instant eye lift, she suggests tapping color corrector on the inner corners of the eyes, the cooler contour shade directly on the lids, and the brighter highlighter hue at the outer eye corners. I immediately attempted the technique when I got home, and no lie, I haven’t uncapped my usual concealer since.
Helpful tip: Don’t sleep on the Underpainting Dual-End Sculpting Brush ($38), which Phillips specifically created for an effortless blend; it has one fluffy side for buffing and one flat end for carving more precise areas, like the nose and lips.
(Image credit: Courtesy of M.Ph)
The iconic makeup artist also created her own luxurious blush brush to pair with her Cheeky Cream Blush ($36), which provides a dreamy, soft-matte pop of color. Note, Phillips doesn’t “underpaint” her blush—just contour and highlighter. “I like blush to be a bit more pigmented, so I layer it not underneath foundation but on top of it,” she once shared on TikTok. These creamy confections certainly do the trick in terms of gorgeous color payoff, but they’re super forgiving and easy to blend for that coveted soft-blurred effect. Pony (a nude pink) is my personal favorite of the bunch, but I can’t wait to dress my cheekbones in Too Much Pinot (a deep berry) come fall and winter.
(Image credit: Courtesy of M.Ph)
Not to fret; Phillips doesn’t leave us hanging in the lip category. She’s also launching a Lip Ciggy ($26), a balm-lipstick hybrid housed in sleek, skinny packaging that makes tracing the perimeter of your lips an absolute breeze, especially on the go. The shade Love Bites, a juicy black currant, is not to be missed; it delivers a sheer kiss of berry for a just-bitten finish (hence the name) and is Phillips’s personal favorite of the bunch—I had to ask!
The collection rounds out with The Overliner Lip Pencil ($25), a matte, richly pigmented liner offered in cool, neutral shades that effortlessly contour the lips. The shade monikers alone will inspire you to play; Cherry Cola, Cowgirl, and Sizzle are particularly calling my name.
(Image credit: Courtesy of M.Ph)
The M.Ph secret is finally out, but the products officially drop on Sephora starting August 15. In the meantime, I’ve compiled all the “underpainting” essentials Phillips has recommended in past tutorials below—because why not master the technique while we wait? That said, I’d definitely mark your calendars and add yourself to the email list so you can snag the full line; once it’s live, I suspect M.Ph will go just as viral as the underpainting technique that started it all.
(Image credit: Courtesy of M.Ph)
In the Meantime, Shop These Underpainting Products
Opening Image: @kendalljenner