Though there was plenty to discuss on Saturday in Milan—from the new Versace to Miranda Priestly and Nigel sitting front row at Dolce & Gabbana—everyone was, understandably so, talking about Bottega Veneta. The Italian house has been on a high for a while now, but you never know what will happen when one designer leaves (Matthieu Blazy, who will make his runway debut for Chanel during Paris Fashion Week later this season), and another takes their place (Louise Trotter, who was announced as Blazy’s successor back in December). Trotter silenced all the noise, though, the second her first model, dressed in an ivory silk blouse, sock boots, and a wool coat fastened with Bottega Veneta’s signature knot motif in navy-blue leather, stepped foot on the all-white runway at the brand’s spring/summer 2026 show in Milan on Saturday. With each passing ensemble, the former Carven and Lacoste creative director proved just how safe the brand is in her very talented hands.
In total, Trotter’s Bottega Veneta debut included 76 looks for both men and women. There were loud, playful ensembles made of mesmerizing fringe, as well as classic, sophisticated combinations made special by specific details, like an Intrecciato collar, a knot cuff link, or a padded shoulder. Tailoring, one of Trotter’s many specialties, was evident throughout the co-ed collection, as were future It bags, like the iconic Lauren, which was reinvented for the spring season. A commercial hit and a creative masterpiece—successfully achieving both is never easy, especially on the first go, and yet, that’s exactly what Trotter did for S/S 26.
Scroll down for more on her critically acclaimed debut for Bottega Veneta.
Louise Trotter Makes History at Bottega Veneta
On Saturday, September 27, 2025, Louise Trotter became the first-ever female creative director at Bottega Veneta. With so few female designers at the helm of fashion’s biggest brands, this is no small feat, and surely something to celebrate. Interestingly, when she joined Lacoste in 2018, following her role as creative director at Joseph, she became the first female creative director there as well. (Trotter exited the French sportswear label in early 2023.) After leaving Lacoste, she was hired as the creative director at French fashion house Carven, where she completely reinvented the brand, making it into one of Paris’s most talked-about labels in just two years. Now, at Bottega Veneta, she’s continuing to break boundaries and design clothes (and more) that women want to wear.
(Image credit: Launchmetrics Spotlight)
Intrecciato Everywhere
2025 marks the 50th anniversary of Bottega Veneta’s signature Intrecciato weaving technique, so naturally, Trotter chose to display it everywhere in her first collection for the brand. The overlapping design feature was always going to be seen on bags and even shoes, but for S/S 26, it also showed up all over the ready-to-wear offering, in big, obvious ways and some more subtle ones. We saw it hidden inside jacket flaps and sewn into Bermuda shorts (a rare non-leather version that opens up a whole new world of possibilities), as well as on removable neck collars and bandanas. And then there were the all-over Intrecciato moments, on patent leather coats adorned with a feather collar, all-white matching sets, and a navy pencil skirt with an uneven hem. Blazy included the weave in apparel as well, but not like this, and I, for one, can’t wait to see what other ways Trotter will introduce it next.
(Image credit: Launchmetrics Spotlight)
(Image credit: Launchmetrics Spotlight)
(Image credit: Launchmetrics Spotlight)
All the Bags
Fashion people often say that for a designer to be successful at a major house, they have to be able to design sellable pieces, namely bags and shoes. Trotter did both in her debut at Bottega Veneta, with the former proving especially strong. Not only were some of the brand’s most popular styles reinvented, like the Cabat and the Lauren, but Trotter also showcased new bag options, like a crocodile open-top tote and dopp kits for women (styled smashingly with almost lingerie-like dresses for a perfect bit of contrast). East-west clutches and slouchy shoulder bags alike will be dangerously buyable come spring.
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A Study in Contrasts
Bottega Veneta’s S/S 26 collection was anything but straightforward. It was an amalgamation of different textures and feelings that all somehow fit together with ease. Classic shirting paired with multicolored fringe skirts and clogs, mixing the brand’s playful look from the past few years with a sense of practicality. Masculine tailoring and bags (particularly, dopp kits) were leveled out with feminine dresses made of both leather and lightweight taffeta. Trench coats were made interesting with Intrecciato details, while simple pumps got an upgrade with shearling and PVC. Sporty sunglasses, furry bags, tinsel jackets and skirts, and elegant kisslock bags all joined forces to create an air of messy perfection that somehow just worked.
(Image credit: Launchmetrics Spotlight)
(Image credit: Launchmetrics Spotlight)
(Image credit: Launchmetrics Spotlight)
(Image credit: Launchmetrics Spotlight)
Hard Launch
In the months between the announcement that Trotter would be Blazy’s successor and her first show for the brand, the designer dropped a few hints at what her vision for Bottega Veneta would look like. In other words, she soft-launched her creations, mostly on the red carpet. There was Julianne Moore‘s simple black gown for “The Phoenician Scheme” premiere at Cannes Film Festival, which featured a subtle, fringe-like detail on one shoulder that mirrors all the fringe on today’s catwalk. Then there was Vicky Krieps’s burgundy Intrecciato backless top that she wore to the “Love Me Tender” photocall, also at Cannes. It was styled with perfectly crisp white, oversized trousers and gold earrings, but the star was the woven top, a detail I already said was a huge part of Trotter’s debut. Now that we’ve seen her first full collection, it’s clear just how these red-carpet moments tied into her vision for the brand and the season ahead.
(Image credit: Daniele Venturelli/WireImage/Getty Images)
(Image credit: JB Lacroix/FilmMagic/Getty Images)
The Bottega Veneta Woman
At Saturday’s show, Hollywood greats like Julianne Moore, Uma Thurman, and Michelle Yeoh showed their support for Trotter and Bottega Veneta, dressed in the brand from head to toe. Both Yeoh and Moore donned denim for the occasion, though they opted for different washes (Yeoh in black and Moore in classic blue), while Thurman chose a long, tailored tuxedo coat with satin lapels, pairing it with gold earrings, open-toe mules, and a Parachute bag. Moore went bag-free, and Yeoh carried a sea-salt colored Campana. The best guest of all? Lauren Hutton, who attended the show carrying her original Lauren bag, which the actress famously carried in the 1980 cult classic American Gigolo. Together, they painted a picture of today’s Bottega Veneta woman: confident, chic, and most of all, undeniably cool.
(Image credit: Robino Salvatore/GC Images/Getty Images)
(Image credit: Swan Gallet/WWD via Getty Images)
(Image credit: Swan Gallet/WWD via Getty Images))
(Image credit: Swan Gallet/WWD via Getty Images)
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